{"id":2180,"date":"2022-10-21T23:45:23","date_gmt":"2022-10-21T23:45:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/billdwhite.com\/?p=2180"},"modified":"2022-10-31T21:38:25","modified_gmt":"2022-10-31T21:38:25","slug":"paperboy-repair-log","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/billdwhite.com\/wordpress\/2022\/10\/21\/paperboy-repair-log\/","title":{"rendered":"PaperBoy – Repair Log"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

2015 – January<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Even though I did not have an actual PaperBoy cabinet, I knew I would eventually find one so I jumped at the change to purchase a NOS CPO overlay for $158. I’m glad I did since it eventually looked awesome once my machine was restored.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That same month, I also purchased original blue Hunt-Wilde bike grips. These were very rare at the time and did not come up for sale very often so I thought nothing of dropping $128 on them. The exact same grips now routinely sell on eBay for $23. That one hurts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Finally, to wrap up my phantom Paperboy cabinet that I would not actually acquire for another 2 years, I purchased the custom PaperBoy sideart from GameOnGrafix<\/a>. While this is not original or even authentic, it is 1000x better to look at than the original System 2 generic sideart they originally came with.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

2017<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

A fellow local collector had a PaperBoy that I had played at his place off\/on for 3 years. He was finally willing to part with it for a reasonable price. It was in someone rough condition, but these games are hard to find and even harder to find locally so I gladly made the deal. I managed to get the thing into the back of my wife’s Ford Explorer and brough it home for immediate and total restoration.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"
Before Restoration<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
\n
\"\"
After Restoration<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

I had to bondo parts of the cabinet to fix missing chunks and I used new laminate to smooth out the sides. I washed the video board and cleaned up the interior. The PCB’s on this game are absolutely huge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I installed the revised plastic screen bezel (again not original but so much better to look at) and some diamond plating on the foot rest which I had seen in another restoration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I powder coated the coin door and had the handlebars completely rechromed and installed a new handlebar stick from ThisOldGame in its place.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The NOS CPO looks awesome. It was so old that the curved section started to crack a bit when I installed it but wasn’t too bad and never really got worse over time. I’m thrilled with that purchase.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is probably my favorite game in the entire collection. The re-play-ability of this game is epic. It never gets old.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

2018 – October<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The screen started slowing going in\/out of focus during game play. It seemed to be the flyback and there were simply no replacements available for sale anywhere because PaperBoy used an improved medium resolution chassis. I sent the chassis to The Arcade Buffett who is the best in the business for fixing these chassis. He replaced the flyback and the picture looked great. One flaw was that the new flyback left a few very very very faint lines on the left side of the screen. They are so subtle that you’d have to have them pointed out to you to notice. Buffett said this was an unavoidable side effect of using a modern flyback on a K7000 chassis. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

2020 – December<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

A K7000 Paperboy Chassis came up on eBay for sale. Hoping to finally get rid of the faint vertical lines, I purchased it for $324. It worked and had no lines but for some reason, the focus knob had to be turned the extreme as far as it would go to get it to focus and even then, it was just not as clean and sharp as the Buffett repaired chassis so I ultimately went back to that one, keep this one as a spare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

2022 – October<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

I’ve been bothered by the fact that I, when I restored the cabinet, I got the Player1 \/ Player2 wires reversed in the handle bars. I decided to do something about it. Opening up the handle bars is a nightmare as the wires inside are 40 years old, very thin and frail and stretched very tight between the soldered connections. Instead, I purchased a molex release toolkit<\/a> which lets you push the connector pins out of the connectors. I used my multimeter in continuity mode to identify the P1\/P2 buttons (touching one end to the ground pin and then finding the corresponding pin that beeped when the P1\/P2 buttons were pressed. I pushed those 2 pins out and switched them. I suppose that, if the wires are color matched on the other side of the connector, they would now be out of sync color-wise but I have no plans to mess with them anytime soon so I’ll risk that (although it does bother my OCD mindset \ud83d\ude42 )<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

2015 – January Even though I did not have an actual PaperBoy cabinet, I knew I would eventually find one so I jumped at the change to purchase a NOS CPO overlay for $158. I’m glad I did since it eventually looked awesome once my machine was restored. 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